Michel de Montaigne, Travel Journal ***

In order to read the preferred translation of Montaigne's Essays (by Donald M. Frame),  I bought the Everyman's Library edition of The Complete Works.  In addition to the essays, this volume includes Montaigne's posthumously published journal from his trip to Italy in 1580-1581 and a few dozen letters. The extra items serve as bonus features like you would find on the special edition DVD of a classic film. The Travel Journal in particular feels like a behind-the-scenes featurette for Book III of the Essays. 

During his travels (through France, Switzerland, Germany, and Italy), Montaigne pays particular attention to the unique customs of each place he visits. He records differences in the amenities at lodgings, such as the type of linens they provide, and notes variations in the content and order of courses. He invariably notes whether their inn serves meals on pewter, wood, or earthenware plates, and comments on the quality of the wine. Particularly in Germany, he investigates the distribution of Catholics and Protestants, the differences between their churches, and how they live together. He regretted not having his chef along to learn to prepare the local dishes he enjoyed. He complains about the prices. He was not impressed with the beauty of Italian women.

One impetus for his trip was to visit health spas to see how they might help his issue with kidney stones. He tries the local treatments, drinking and bathing in the healing waters, with diverse effects. He describes in detail his stay and treatment at the baths near Lucca, learning about the consistency of his urine and about the ball he held for the local peasantry at which he mishandles the awarding of prizes in cringe-worthy fashion.

Montaigne's wit and style show through every once in a while, where a long passage about his health or the wonders of a palace's fountains ends with an epigram ("Curiosity often gets in its own way, as do greatness and power") or funny non-sequitur ("This town is most abundant in pigeons, hazelnuts, and mushrooms.")