Wednesday, April 18, 2012

Susan Casey, The Wave ***

The Wave is a surfing book disguised as a popular science book about giant waves. In her introduction, Casey says she'll investigate "freak" waves from the point of view of scientists, mariners, and surfers. And she does, but with a heavy emphasis on surfers. Most of the chapters describe awesome days out surfing with Laird Hamilton, the literary equivalent of a Warren Miller film or Endless Summer.

Casey is a very good writer, effectively capturing both the sense of an experience and scientific principles. I just wish she'd provided more of the latter.

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